Seven Places to Visit in Cambodia Beyond Angkor
Seven places worth the detour in Cambodia, away from the temples — an island, a bamboo bridge, a crater lake, a pine forest, the Cardamoms and the Battambang bats.
Seven places worth the detour in Cambodia, away from the temples — an island, a bamboo bridge, a crater lake, a pine forest, the Cardamoms and the Battambang bats.
Angkor is the reason most people come, and it earns it. But the country stretches a long way past Siem Reap, and some of what it holds is genuinely unexpected: a crater lake in the northeast, an island of white sand in the south, and a bamboo bridge that gets rebuilt by hand every year. Here are seven, and where each one is.

Koh Rong Sanloem is the quieter of the two big islands off Sihanoukville — pale sand, clear water, and jungle running down to the shoreline in most bays. Boats leave from Sihanoukville and take under an hour. Different bays have quite different characters, so it is worth deciding which one you are heading for before you buy the ticket.

Every dry season, the people of Kampong Cham build a bridge of bamboo across the Mekong to Koh Pen island, and every wet season the river takes it away. Seen from above it is a thin pale line running straight across the brown water. It is rebuilt by hand, which is the part worth understanding before you walk it.

Yeak Laom sits in a volcanic crater outside Banlung, almost perfectly round and ringed by dense forest. The water is deep green and calm, with wooden platforms at the edge for swimming. It is one of the easiest things to reach in Ratanakiri and a good first stop in the province.

Cambodia is not a country you associate with pine trees, which is exactly why Kirirom surprises people. The park in Kampong Speu sits high enough for cooler air, with tall pines and dirt paths through the grass. It is close to Phnom Penh — the easiest of these seven to fit into a short trip. It also appears in our guide to Cambodia's twelve national parks.

The Cardamom Mountains run across the southwest, and the road through them is one of the better rides in the country: long curves, forest on both sides, ridgelines showing in the distance. Riders usually build it into a loop between Koh Kong and the coast. Fuel and repairs are sparse once you are inside, so plan the stops.

At dusk, a cave in the hillside at Phnom Sampeau outside Battambang releases a stream of bats that goes on, without a break, for a long time. People gather at the roadside below to watch it. It happens daily around sunset, and the timing shifts with the season.

In the small town of Chhloung, in Kratie province, a restored colonial villa looks out over the Mekong — ochre walls, arcades, a balustraded terrace and a garden of palms in front of it. It is an unexpected thing to find on that stretch of the river, and worth a stop if you are travelling between Kampong Cham and Kratie.

None of these are far from a road, but they are spread across the country: Koh Rong Sanloem and the Cardamoms in the south and southwest, Kampong Cham and Kratie along the Mekong, Yeak Laom in the far northeast, Battambang in the west. Two or three of them fit comfortably into one trip; all seven is a long itinerary.
The bamboo bridge only exists in the dry season, roughly November to May, and the boats to the islands are more reliable in the same window. Everything else runs year-round, with conditions changing more than the opening times do.
Explore more places on The Map Cambodia.
From the SOSORO Museum to the Royal Palace and PSE, here are five meaningful places to visit in Phnom Penh for history, craft and culture.
LireAngkor, Preah Vihear, Sambor Prei Kuk and Koh Ker are Cambodia's UNESCO World Heritage sites. What each one is, when it was listed, and how to fit them into a trip.
LireUn petit guide de cinq plats khmers à connaître avant de visiter le Cambodge — fish amok, lok lak, curry rouge khmer, num banh chok et bay sach chruk.
Lire