Cambodia Motorbike Loop: Our 2,500 km Route (2026)

A weekend for Hélène’s 30th became a month on the road

We were meant to go away for a weekend for Hélène’s 30th birthday. We ended up spending about a month on the road, from late April to late May, covering roughly 2,500 km around Cambodia.

We brought our laptops and kept working between stops. Our bike was a Royal Enfield Himalayan 450, fitted with Lone Rider ADV luggage.

The roads surprised us. Riding through the Cardamoms was incredible: good tarmac and very little traffic. The only really rough stretch on our loop was about 30 km of dirt and loose stones between Sihanoukville and Kampot.

We had no rain during the trip. Here is the route, the stops we enjoyed and a few things we would do differently.

Cambodia motorbike loop: quick facts

Before renting, read our practical guide to licence, insurance and motorbike rental in Cambodia. For broader planning, compare our Cambodia route ideas and itinerary rhythms.

One possible route through Cambodia

Siem Reap → Veal Veang → Osoam → Tatai → Koh Kong → Sihanoukville → Koh Rong → Kampot → Kep → Phnom Penh → Kampong Cham → Chhlong → Kratie and Kampi → Sen Monorom → Banlung → Stung Treng → Phnom Tbeng → Koh Ker → Beng Mealea → Siem Reap

We took our time on this loop. With less than a month, we would choose part of it rather than try to fit everything in.

If you have less time, start with our comparison of ten or fourteen days in Cambodia to decide how many stages fit your dates.

Back to the clickable stage map

Selected distances from our trip log

Distances above come from our trip log and should not replace live navigation, fuel planning or a same-day road check.

Stage 1: Into the Cardamom Mountains

The first day took us from Siem Reap to Veal Veang: 319 km. It was a long ride, with a stop at Veayo Coffee along the way.

The next stretch, from Veal Veang through Osoam towards Tatai, was one of our favourite rides. Long bends, forest, little traffic and very good tarmac. National Road 10 was recently upgraded.

The Techo Santipheap Russey Chrum Bridge is another reason to stop and look around.

At Tatai, we left the bike and took a boat to Canvas & Orchids. A few days on the river were welcome after the riding. We also explored around Koh Kong.

Stage 2: Tatai, Sihanoukville and a pause on Koh Rong island

From Tatai, we headed to Sihanoukville, a 207 km stage in our notes. We left the bike in the autonomous port’s covered parking, advertised at USD 1 a day during our visit, then took a boat to Koh Rong island.

We stayed at Pagoda Beach. It was a proper beach break in the middle of the trip, before collecting the bike and heading towards Kampot.

Of the 100 km between Sihanoukville and Kampot, about 30 km were dirt and loose stones. That was the only really rough stretch on our loop. We slowed down and took our time. The rest of the riding was much easier than we had expected.

Stage 3: Kampot, Kep and the road to Phnom Penh

In Kampot, we explored the salt fields, market and riverside. We also visited La Plantation and had lok lak with fresh pepper.

Kep was an easy next stop: 20 km in our notes. We spent a few days there, including a stay at Samanea Beach Resort.

The road to Phnom Penh passes through Kampong Trach and its limestone hills. We did not visit the caves this time. Our journey maps record 152 km for this stage.

Stage 4: Following the Mekong north

We rode 220 km from Phnom Penh to Chhlong via Kampong Cham, stopping near the Mekong and the bamboo bridge.

This was also the day we underestimated the heat. It was around 40°C. Sébastien had not drunk enough and became ill from the heat between Phnom Penh and Chhlong. It is not our favourite memory, but it is worth sharing: drink regularly and take breaks before you start feeling unwell.

Town pharmacies can help with everyday supplies, including rehydration products. But confusion, loss of consciousness or failure to recover after cooling and rehydration needs urgent medical attention. A pharmacy is not a substitute for that care.

In Chhlong, we stayed at Le Relais de Chhlong, right beside the river.

We continued to Kratie, ate at Street Three Eatery and rode the 15 km to Kampi, the area known for its Irrawaddy dolphins.

Stage 5: Red earth and highland coffee

From Kratie, we rode 209 km to Sen Monorom in Mondulkiri. The landscape changes considerably, and the air gets cooler.

PIDA Coffee Farm was one of our favourite stops: coffee grown on site, a pool and views over the hills.

We also visited Sen Monorom market and had breakfast at Phea’s Treats before riding the 185 km to Banlung in Ratanakiri.

Near Banlung, we visited Yeak Laom lake.

Stage 6: Stung Treng, Koh Ker and closing the loop

In Stung Treng, we stopped at Mekong Bird Resort and visited the Preah Ko ruins. We then travelled towards Phnom Tbeng and Koh Ker.

Our return maps continue through Beng Mealea before Siem Reap. We got home in late May after about a month away.

Ten things we would keep in mind next time

1. Leave early. Riding in the heat soon becomes tiring.
2. Drink regularly. Sébastien’s experience made that point rather clearly.
3. Take breaks. Coffee, water and a few minutes in the shade do not need to wait for the next overnight stop.
4. Keep daily distances reasonable. Our 319 km first day need not become the daily target.
5. Check your licence and insurance before leaving. Our Cambodia motorbike guide covers what to look at.
6. Fill up before remote stretches. Stations are easy to find on main roads, less so between some stops.
7. We had no connection problems. Mobile coverage worked well for us throughout this loop.
8. Check the straps and balance the load. Especially with laptops in the luggage.
9. Bring rain protection. We had no rain, but that says nothing about the next trip.
10. Leave room to change the plan. We set out for a weekend. That plan did not last long.

What we packed on the bike

We used Lone Rider ADV luggage, with a small waist bag for our phone, keys and things we wanted close at hand. Here is what we packed:

• For riding: helmet, gloves, jacket, hiking trousers, trainers, a neck covering and sunglasses.
• For the stops: a modest rotation of T-shirts, a shirt, shorts, light trousers, sandals, a cap and a krama.
• For weather and upkeep: sunscreen, a lightweight rain jacket and chain lubricant. We carried the rain jacket but had no rain during this journey.
• For working and making images: a laptop and its charger, a phone and charger, a drone with spare propellers, earphones and a microphone. We also brought a Kindle.

Our laptops and camera equipment took up space. Without work on the road, you can pack much lighter.

Fuel: how much should you budget?

Our usual reference was around USD 1 per litre. With higher fuel costs amid the Middle East conflict, allow roughly USD 1.20 to 1.30 for regular petrol at this update.

The grade also matters, and prices can change quickly. The budget below allows 100 litres at USD 1.30, or USD 130. That volume is a planning assumption, not our measured consumption.

What would a similar month cost?

For two people, this example allows USD 20–40 per night for a double room, over 30 days and 29 nights. It is a guide to doing the loop with simple hotels, not a record of our own spending.

That is roughly USD 1,710–2,290 for two, excluding the motorcycle purchase or rental, riding equipment, flights, visas and insurance. Add any paid activities you choose; there is no blanket sightseeing allowance in this example.

The boat price comes from the published Pagoda Beach service. Not every hotel mentioned in the story falls within USD 20–40: that range is the budget used here, not their quoted rates.

See also our two-week Cambodia budget examples.

Dreaming of a Cambodia beyond the usual route?

You can follow part of this loop by motorbike or with a driver. Tell us which stops interest you and how much time you have, and we can help plan the trip.

Frequently asked questions

How much time should you allow for an off-the-beaten-path Cambodia journey?

We took about a month. With less time, choose the Cardamoms and coast, or the Mekong and highlands.

Can you experience this route without riding a motorbike?

Yes, much of the route can also be done with a driver. Adapt the stops and arrange the boat crossings separately.

For the sections you want to keep, compare transport options for a Cambodia trip before choosing how to travel.

What was the hardest section?

The roughly 30 km of dirt and loose stones between Sihanoukville and Kampot. Elsewhere, the heat was often more tiring than the road.

What was the most beautiful section?

For riding, the Cardamoms. For the stops, we would struggle to choose between Tatai, Koh Rong and the highlands.

Can The Map Cambodia help shape an off-the-beaten-path journey?

We can help think through a realistic route around your dates, group, travel style and priorities. Send the form below and we will reply personally with the most useful next step.

From inspiration to the ground

Continue with the useful guides.

Explore the stops that interest you. For the exact order, realistic timing and coordination, we then shape the trip around your dates.

Motorbike & scooter guideLicence, insurance, rental checks and route decisionsOpen the guideGetting aroundUnderstand distances and transport choicesOpen the guideTrip rhythmsCompare broad routes without a fixed programmeOpen the guide